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Rural King 1250 Watt 2-Cycle Generator GEN1250

SKU: 1053373  |


16 Review(s)


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Customer Reviews

Items 1 to 10 of 16 total

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Great little genny Review by ag

This is a great generator once i fixed a couple things that wasnt the fault of the genny. my first mistake was buying the pre mix gas in the ran terrible until i got fresh gas and mixed it myself.I also changed spark plug to a autolight 64 and it ran rough until i checked and the gap setting was wrong once corrected it ran great.The one issue i have is genny quits running when gas gets down to 1/2 tank fill it back to full and it starts right up.With a little tlc this genny should last.Just dont abuse it by exceeding the amps of 6.5 or 800 watts.Trying to run air conditioners and large fridges will shorten the life of the genny. lights,small tools, fans and motors no more than 1/2 hp are fine, overall for the price great little genny.

(Posted on 6/9/2015)

I like the quality. Review by kyack

I like the quality.

(Posted on 11/5/2014)

Not sure Review by Joshua

The price is right, it runs but i am having issues with voltages. It is likely the cheap chinese spark plugs. I am 90% sure this is the same generator HB sells but rebranded, there are hundreds of them under different names. It can't seen to keep the voltage stable at all. Hovers around 50 volts. I am going to try to replace the plugs or return, still a good buy but it is a 100 dollar generator and the quality is about what you expect. Might just need some work. Research says they last but have a few key issues, one being spark plug. Sips gas, seems to do batteries fine. My dc plug is a bit crooked and sticks out but other than that its fine.

(Posted on 11/5/2014)

great value! great light weight generator for the price! Review by john shackelford

nice light weight generator.much quieter than I thought it would be.can't beat the price.overall a terrific value for your buck!

(Posted on 9/21/2014)

Great little portable power Review by Tim

This little gen is a great help around the farm. It is small and portable, and it has the meat to run most of my handheld power tools. It has some voltage fluctuation, so don't use it with sensitive electronics, but most utility items will be OK. I run a 42 inch floor fan with it, no problems, charge the tractor battery, 500 watt halogen light, and things like that. It is quiet, easy to start, and reliable, and perfect for my needs. I have had my generator 6 years.

Words of note:
Follow the break in directions to the letter.
Put an Autolite 64 plug in it first thing.
ALWAYS use fuel stabilizer. I use the green sta-bil ethanol at one oz per gallon and 50 :1 mix oil
AVOID alcohol fuels if you can.

(Posted on 9/20/2014)

Bad purchase Review by Mike

The item was needed for an outdoor party. Arrived damaged beyond use from shipper. Customer service was far from helpful. Their investigation revealed shipper damaged. Received email that I would get a full refund. Still waiting for refund. Overall experience awful. First and last time I buy from rural king

(Posted on 9/17/2014)

broken generator Review by steve rottinghaus

When I Opened the package the first thing I noticed was that the frame where the gas tank was connected to, was broken in two. Although this shouldn't affect the performance of the unit I won't be able to lift this generator by the handle without some modification repair work.

(Posted on 8/15/2014)

good product Review by tony kolka

runs good. starts everytime. no problem, gets the jod done

(Posted on 8/4/2014)

FINAL REVIEW UPDATE Review by robert Rogers

My experience/observation of this generator. First I would comment that I have owned over 100 generators in the last 20 years
and have a mechanical/electronics repair background. I work generators hard!!! With that said compared with the many CHINA MADE 2 stroke generators on the market this one has the most features I believe. It has the voltage meter and 12 volt DC output which many do not.

1. CHINA MADE and manufactured under several brand names. I Have 2 others just like this one under different brand names and at much higher prices.

2. Pull start hub mechanism made of plastic as all cheapies are these days to include the plastic pull handle which is made of thin plastic to which both can break easily. (and has in certain cases). I sometimes replace the cheap cord and handle with a quality one for under $5.

3. The carb is EPA/California compliant

4. This model is one of the quietest I have used of over 20 2 strokers. One can rig up extra muffling if needed.

5. I always install a better quality spark plug . No valves to adjust..

6. I have used many mix ratios and types of oil to include 30 weight oil with no problems. I prefer to mix my oil on the heaver side for best compression/lube and would rather clean a plug once in a while than run lean. If you mix in too much oil you will notice oil dripping out of the exhaust, smoke in the exhaust, and a harder start. The 2 stroke motor will smoke for a few moments when first stared until warmed up which is also common.

There is a adjustment screw located above the pull start handle area to adjust voltage/frequency speed of the generator. This screw adjustment simple adds more or less tension on the speed regulator control arm. The motor RPM when not under load will fluctuate which is common. One can experiment with the motor speed regulator which is spring loaded by changing where the end of the spring is connected to the control arm. Their are 6 holes along the arm that the spring can be adjusted/connected to for speed regulation issues if one likes to experiment.


When you mix your oil into the gasoline your are then lowering your octane
rating(usually atleast 2 pts). You need the oil to provide the compression in a
2 stroke(It provides the seals around th piston rings as well as lubricates the
engine) The amount of oil you run will be the determing factor on this. The more
oil you run the higher the compression to the maximum number that the engine is capable
of. That is why you see usually two values on compression for a two stroke, it
is harder to create that seal at high rpm's therefore the comprssion goes down.

If you run too much oil then you decrease that level so greatly that you
then limit the power making capability(potential energy in the fuel) of the
gasoline unless you increase the octane level to compensate, so there is a bit of a balance there. If you run a oil rich mix say 25:1 to 30:1 then I would run a higher octane. If you were running somewhere around say
35:1 to 40:1 then I would try to run 91 octane. It is always good practice to start
with the manuals reccomendations, but it has no gaurantee that it is going to be
the best setup for you, you may have different air density, fuel quality, oil
quality than they do in giving you those numbers. A little trial and error will
set you in the right direction.

The octane rating of gasoline tells you how much the fuel can be compressed before it spontaneously ignites. When gas ignites by compression rather than because of the spark from the spark plug, it causes knocking in the engine. Knocking can damage an engine, so it is not something you want to have happening. Lower-octane gas (like "regular" 87-octane gasoline) can handle the least amount of compression before igniting.

One way to increase the horsepower of an engine of a given displacement is to increase its compression ratio. So a "high-performance engine" has a higher compression ratio because of chamber, piston, and stroke design, and requires higher-octane fuel. The advantage of a high compression ratio is that it gives your engine a higher horsepower rating for a given engine weight -- that is what makes the engine "high performance." The disadvantage is that the gasoline for your engine costs more.

The compression ratio of your engine determines the octane rating of the gas you must use in the engine. USING A HIGHER LEVEL OF OCTANE THAN WHAT YOUR ENGINE COMPRESSION RATINGS ARE... GIVES YOU NO MORE POWER! A WASTE OF MONEY AT THIS POINT!

ETHANOL -blended fuels should not sit for more than about 2 months in your tank to avoid phase seperation
ethanol blended fuels contains higher oyygen content and some 2 strokes are not able to compensate for the increase.

Adding stabilizer in all small engines not only preserves the fuel and prevents shellacking, but inhibits the deleterious effects of Ethanol and other additives. Most manufacturers of quality 2 stoke oil add stabilizer to the oil.

Phase Separation (Leaning Effect)
The situation with the greatest potential for damage is phase separation in the fuel tank of a 2-cycle engine without an oil sump. If the engine is able to start and run on the alcohol/water phase, it won't be lubricated -- almost all the added engine oil will be in the gasoline phase.
Compared to a conventional gasoline, oxygenated gasoline results in a leaner air-fuel mixture. This causes some engines to run rough. Also, engines may run hotter on lean mixtures, which, in the extreme, can result in engine damage. If the engine in your equipment is running rough and it has an adjustable carburetor, check that the adjustment is proper for the fuel you are using.

To minimize the chance of phase separation, keep water out of your equipment's fuel system and practice good fuel management. You can eliminate the possibility of water pickup when your equipment is not in use if you keep the fuel tank full and close the tank vent

Gasoline oxygenated with ALCOHOL, readily takes up water when it is present. The water may be condensed out of humid air or be a contaminant in the fuel system. Dissolved water will not interfere with engine operation. But if enough water is present, gasoline oxygenated with alcohol will separate into two liquid phases: a top phase which is almost all gasoline (and oil, in the case of 2-cycle fuel) and a bottom phase of water and alcohol. (Phase separation is not a problem with gasoline oxygenated with MTBE.) Phase separation may make the engine difficult or impossible to start. To solve the problem, replace the separated mixture with fresh gasoline.

Some manufacturers of 2 stroke engines --Arctco, Bombardier, Outboard Marine, and Polaris--indicate that certain of their engines may require larger carburetor jets to compensate for the leaning effect of oxygenated gasoline. . Problem is the highest octanes are achieved by MOTOR octane additives, which will just gum up the pistons in a 2 cycle engine. Base stock is generally the same. The MID-GRADE gas has the detergent additives needed to clean your motor and sufficient octane for MOST motors.

Deterioration During Storage
If a gasoline is of poor quality or if the storage conditions are adverse, gasoline can oxidize and form gums over the period of several months. I always drain my carb bowl when not using the generator. These changes can increase engine deposits and plugging. There are reasons to suspect that oxygenated gasoline may form gums more readily than conventional gasoline, but actual evidence is limited. A safeguard recommended by some manufacturers is the use of name-brand gasoline from companies recognized for the quality of their products. Another safeguard is good fuel management.
Practice Good Fuel Management
Match your purchases to your consumption.
Don't buy more than you'll use in one to two months.
Store gasoline in a tightly-closed container in a cool, dry place and add stabilizer.


7. I always use a external voltage/frequency/watt meter to monitor output when running electronics off of this generator. I have powered my 50 inch big screen, sat receiver, computer/23 inch monitor, dsl modem, cordless phone, a 60 watt lamp and a few chargers all at the same time for 18 hours straight on this particular generator. ( refueled on the fly) I sometimes use a APC to protect from brownout situations. One can hook up both the 12 volt output and run a battery charger from the 120 AC volt supply to supply a recharge value to a 12 battery while running off of a invertor if concerned about voltage and brownout situations.

First of all let me say that I have NEVER in the past 20 years had a electronic device fail because of voltage fluctuation between 110 and 128 volts and a fluctuation of frequency (60HZ standard) between 57HZ and 63HZ. I have used a extensive number of electronic devices on generator power. Most electronic devices have built in regulation or switching power supplies for protection. This generators ability to hold within these tolerances are expectable as long as the load capacity is not exceeded. The main issue here I believe is when a generator runs out of gas or has a failure that results in a OVER REV or brownout situation (drop of voltage below tolerable levels) . These are brush-less type generators which require no brush maintenance or issues associated (arcing static) with brush generators.

One must understand the startup amperage draw and running amperage/wattage of ANY device that is to be powered by this generator.. This generator has handled a continuous 850 watt load for me for hours depending on the devices it was running. Devices like compressors, heaters, tools, etc. that go on and off intermittently can have a effect on what the generator (any generator) can handle under various circumstances. In some cases I have ran higher loads off of this generator for short times especially tools and lights.

The DC 12* volt output is unregulated off of a bridge rectifier at around 9 amps and when used for charging batteries this means
that it will keep charging as long as the battery is connected (no automatic charge shutdown upon full charged battery).

I have ran this generator for 8-10 hours a day straight for 2 weeks with no problems. I have put over 300 hours on one of these generators and still going strong. I always recommend checking bearing grease especially with less than top quality bearings. When not used regularly it can be beneficial to drain the carb bowl to prevent buildup on needle valves and components.

When running in really hot temps it is best to keep the generator shaded with plenty of air space to prevent over heating of plastic parts. The on/off switch soft plastic cover can become stiff in cold climates and make it difficult to turn the switch on and off. I also cover my breakers and receptacles to prevent moisture/corrosion damage also. I also add a little oil to my foam carb filter to enhance the air intake.

I prefer to take the plastic cover off of the voltage meter and color in a area on the face of the meter between 110 and 125 on the volt scale for easier quick reference to the operation voltage as my eyes are not what they use to be.

(Posted on 2/24/2014)

update Review by Robert Rogers

I have put 56 hours of run time on this generator since purchasing it and am very pleased with this generator at this point. I ran it for 18 hours straight this week (refueling while running) . I ran my 47 inch big screen,sat reciever,computer,modem,cordless phone,and a 60 watt light all at the sane time.

(Posted on 2/21/2014)

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